Sewing blues
I've completed the bulk of the top: the main pieces are sewn together and the neck facings are all attached. I worked really hard to keep everything as neat as possible, French seaming the sides and ensuring the centre back edges were neatly turned under so no raw edges would be visible. This meant it took longer than I expected.
But... it's a bit tight across the bust. Not unwearably tight, but certainly noticeable, and the pattern shows it being loosish. On top of that, there's armhole gape. I can fix some of the gape with armhole darts, but I've seen people snobbishly say online 'screams home-made', making me feel bad even for having that as a fixing option.
A friend on Twitter said as I'm planning to lose the lockdown weight, perhaps I should put the project to one side till I've done that as it will alter the fit, and she's probably right. Part of me just wants to get the wretched thing finished and out of the way.
THE POSITIVES
This is my first time making a bias-cut garment in a lighter fabric, and I've managed not to stretch the fabric out of shape during cutting or sewing.
I successfully dropped the bust darts – see, I did learn something from making my shirt dress! – and they sit really nicely.
The neckline's nice and even, even if it took me a couple of goes to get the facing right.
Even if the pattern is a loose-fitting one, I need to do a full bust adjustment. The Girls need breathing space.
Make a muslin. MAKE A DAMN MUSLIN!
The top's not unwearable. (I don't think I've made anything unwearable, to be honest, even if there are a few things I'm not 100% happy with.) It isn't going to come out quite like the one on the pattern envelope, but it'll look fine. I'm sitting here right now hating my body and half-tempted to grab my savings and find a boob surgeon to make them smaller, but as I always tell my friends who get down about their bodies, it's not the body that's at fault, it's the clothes. The biggest lesson of all that I need to take away from this is that I have to be realistic about my shape, it's not standard, and I have to take the time to do a proper full bust adjustment to patterns.
Anyway, I'm going to feel annoyed with myself for a bit, and consider whether to finish the top, or shelve it till I've lost some weight (and hopefully chest acreage).
Just from my own experience, a minimiser bra can make a world of difference even if it just shaves off an inch or so when it comes to blouses. Some shape, some flatten, and it is good to have a variety of bras to try tops on with. I blame the undergarments before blaming the clothes (or body). Good luck with it.
ReplyDeleteOoh, that's a good thought. I put on a dress that usually fits well and it's definitely too tight up top so I guess a chunk of my extra stone has gone on my front. I'm guilty of not paying much attention to underwear beyond making sure it's not visible through clothes.
DeleteHaha, your post made me laugh, I thought I was having a bad day by sewing the button on my new shorts the wrong way!!
ReplyDeleteYou could always bind your knockers of doom. I did that once to fit in a blouse I totally loved and yes it killed me! I swear if I have the cash I am getting a bust reduction!!! Take care and keep safe
I did look at the cost of bust reductions, I was so annoyed! Really I just need to hit the gym a bit more often now it's reopened.
DeleteThat fabric is utterly fabulous, so you! What a shame about the sizing issue. I'm inclined to agree with your friend, put it to one side and finish it when you've lost the weight rather than mess around with it too much and never be happy. I'm in awe of your sewing, you put my slapdash attempts to shame. xxx
ReplyDeleteHaving worn a dress that usually fits today and realised it's a bit tight up top, I think that's definitely where the lockdown extra has gone. (I have disproportionately small hips. WHY COULDN'T THE WEIGHT GO THERE AND MAKE ME AN HOURGLASS?)
DeleteI'm very much a details person, which probably explains the job I do. I need to try to be more carefree and just enjoy the creative rush!
The fabric is gorgeous, though, but that is probably making you feel even worse. But you did learn something, apart from never ever not make a muslin first again. I'm hearing you on not being a standard shape, though, even if your knockers of doom remark did make me chuckle! If you can bear to put it aside for now, I'd do just that and see how you feel when you've lost some weight again. Damn lockdown! xxx
ReplyDeleteI'm tempted to make another shirt just because I've got that pattern right...
DeleteYup I'd say put it aside for a while and definitely focus on the plus sides of what went right and the fact you make beautiful things!!! I have a sewing machine that has been behind my sofa now for 3 years.
ReplyDeleteMy mum gave me an overlocker and I've never used it...
Delete(I should probably learn to do use it, as I quite fancy some jersey maxi dresses for slomping round the house in.)
As a positive note, I think that a bias cut garment in a light fabric is something really difficult so I admire that you're considerably skilled!.
ReplyDeleteAnd I can't see anything wrong in armhole darts, they work!. Obviously, I'd like a perfect fit, but usually it involves making the whole thing from scratch once more. I've been tempted to throw some sewing projects away, a lot of times.
Making a muslim and have all the damn bust adjustment is something I have to do too. I know I'm a plus size, but even plus size patterns can be tricky!
besos
(I have had problems to comment in your blog from my computer, but now it works!, probably my fault anyway!)
Yeah, I think I'm going to put the armhole darts in. The pattern's so busy they'll be virtually invisible anyway.
DeleteIt can be a bit soul-crushing when you realize that you've gained weight - it's been doing a number on my head too, Mim. Be kind to yourself, and sew the top anyway. Take each day at a time, and be patient. You can do it!
ReplyDeleteI can and I will!
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